But, there are some situations, and some opponents, when it is worth the risk to slow play. This article will cover when it is NOT worth the risk of slow playing.
I’ll start by listing the hands and situations that should be slow played, and then explaining each one in detail.
1. Top pair almost every time
2. Bottom two pair almost every time
3. Any set or two pair if the board has three to the flush
4. Any set or two pair if the board is three to the straight (2, 3, 4, or 9, T, J)
5. Any time you are playing with multiple loose callers.
6. Any time your hand is vulnerable to redraws.
Example 1: Top Pair
Lets take the first example. This one is pretty simple. Top pair is just a pair, and any next card could complete a set, trips, or two pair. It may also make a flush or a straight depending on the board.
With top pair, any other card that comes can make your marginal hand dead. Whats more, you won’t have any idea how strong your opponent is without a bet, and a call or raise from your opponent.
So bet. Bet it strong. No less than half the pot against one opponent, and ¾ or a full pot sized bet against more. Maybe even a slight overbet if in early position. Take it down now, and hard. Or at least find out if they have a REAL hand.
Example 2: bottom two pair.
If this isn’t an expensive hand, I don’t know what is. Bottom 2 pair is the smallest monster, and it is extremely vulnerable to redraws. Top pair, top kicker can hit a set, or a better two pair with a total of 8 outs on the turn, and possibly 11 on the river. Not to mention any flush or straight draw possibilities.
Do not slow play this. I will generally overbet the pot when there is a bet before me, and I’ll fire off a ¾ to a full pot sized bet if there hasn’t been a bet. Play it hard and fast, hope it holds up, and get paid in the long run.
Example 3: Any set or two pair when the board is three to the flush.
The bottom line here is: No Free Cards. Fire a pot sized bet. We NEED to see where we are at. If someone calls, you are going to have to make a decision to continue based on what you know about your opponent. If they fold, great. You won the pot with a dangerous board. This is just one of those unlucky flops for you that need to be played fast.
Example 4: Any set or two pair when the board is three to the straight.
Again, the same principles apply to the straight as they do the flush. We NEED to see where we are at. Even though this board isn’t AS scary as three to the flush, particularly if its low cards to the straight (4, 5, 6). It needs to be bet at anyway. Play it fast, take it down now, and wait for the board to flop 2 6 T for your 6 T big blind special to take down the bigger pot later.
Example 5: Any time you are playing against multiple loose callers.
This is where we really want to bet it out strong. These guys are loose, so they are more likely to stick around in the hand. Make them pay for that privledge. An overbet can work to push most of them out, or a pot sized raise if there is already a bet. Remember, the more loose callers you have, the more likely it is that one will hit a bigger hand than you have. So, push them out by playing fast.
Example 6: Any time you have a hand that is particularly vulnerable to redraws.
Lets say you hold 9c Ts. The flop is 6h, 7h, 8s. Another heart will scare your monster, and a 4th heart will almost surely kill it. So bet the flop fast. Don’t wait for another heart, or give someone a reason to catch it cheap. Make them pay. In the long run, whether a heart comes or not, you made a positive EV play.
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